The Real Beijing

Somewhere during the upcoming coverage of the Olympics, I'm sure the media will try to do a piece on "the real Beijing" - I'll be interested to see it. There's no doubt in my mind the Chinese have tried to "olympicize" their hutongs, little pocket neighborhoods in the city that haven't changed much in the past 200 years. After all, the Beijing Olympics are all about showcasing China as a superpower, and the gentle pace of life in the hutongs is a step back in time. A time when there was scant heat or running water, and very little electricity for refrigeration or light.

We were lucky enough to find a hutong during our visit three years ago. It was probably six square blocks of one of the most amazing markets I've ever seen. There was a whole street devoted just to the sale of cicadas. In the city, especially a concrete monolith like Beijing, residents long for a feeling of connectedness to nature. Having a cicada or a cricket in the house brings good luck (and the illusion that you're living in the country, I guess). So they sell these elaborate little clay houses for the cicadas and crickets. But let me tell you -- some of those Chinese cicadas are pretty huge. We saw more than one stall selling them with little leashes so you could take them out for a walk. Another street was devoted to chickens, and chicken parts. Live chickens stacked in cages one above the other. Little dried chicken feet sold in bunches. The "end caps" as we like to call them in America, you know, the little showcased items at the end of an aisle, often held tubs of worms for feeding the chickens and cicadas. There was a store that sold erhus - an instrument kind of like a Chinese violin, only with three strings. Although we were the only Westerners there that day, apparently we were not the first to find the erhu store. The manager broke into a rendition of "Yankee Doodle" when we walked by!

Even back in 2005, Beijing was gearing up for the Olympics of course. Renovations were underway in the Forbidden City and at the Summer Palace. And the "Bird's Nest" was just breaking ground. But our hosts made sure we saw where the Olympics were going to be held. The sense of anticipation and pride was palpable even then.

So last night I watched the opening ceremonies with a sense of awe. Say what you will about the Chinese government's human rights abuses. In my opinion, the United States has no room to talk on this issue. The average Beijing-er is no different from the average Chicagoan, or the average Parisian, or the average human anywhere. They love their children, and they love their country and they are proud to be who they are. They have done something beautiful and marvelous and they should be honored for their efforts.

I wonder about that little hutong market. It's about three blocks down from where Mayor Daley (and President Bush for that matter) are staying. I'd be willing to bet that if it is still there, it's been given a "facelift" for visiting dignitaries. That would be a travesty for sure. In that exotic and wonderful place, there was a happiness and vitality that, for me at least, epitomized the spirit of Beijing.

Bravo, Beijing, and Shih-shih for a wonderful opening ceremony.